Mexico City is unlike anything I've been to. But before I elaborate...Gina is living there until June 2023, the proud recipient of a scholarship that allows her to live and work there and absorb all that this city has to offer- and which allows her parents to have the perfect reason to visit.
And we timed our visit well: Mexico celebrates The Day of The Dead; It takes place the last week in October into the first week of November. For those of you you who have seen the Bond movie Spectre, you will remember the opening scene. For those of you who have not seen it... (Daniel Craig is always a wonder to observe.).. but so is the first 10 minutes opening scene, which takes place during this holiday on the Mexican calendar. More to follow.
We arrived late, booked into our hotel in the Historic District, rested up and spent the rest of the following day with Gina and Jack. As the "expert traveler" to Mexico City, in my small group of Kees and I, I could not wait to share this city with Kees.
Our first day was in Coyoacan, a trendy, busy, and lovely neighborhood that among other things is where Frida Kahlo's house is located. We met Gina and Jack there and sipped a great coffee called Cafe De Olla.
BUT: our second day took place far out of the city, at the Totalongo Caves. On Gina's recommendation, we all went on a wonderful, no: spectacular- outing to the Totalongo Caves. We left at 6am, bundled ourselves into a group with 8 other people in a white van , and off we went with Daniel as our remarkable tour guide.And just a quick side-bar here: He was fantastic. He led and served and organized and managed and taught and shared information
with all of us in a kind and professional manner, paid attention, facilitated great food, and allowed us to experience this remarkable natural wonder unrushed, unforced...(I had an odd moment where I could see myself as an old lady, in buses doing trips, no responsibility,with the only thing I needed to do was be back at the van at the appointed time.) Such a great day. And yes, it felt like I was going to drown going into the caves, but hey, I didn't. We all came out of the caves, the pools, the beauty, and arrived back in CDMX( city center) by 9pm.
(The idea of not having, or having to take, responsibility, is a very cool one).
So--- on to the next few days during the Day of the Dead week in CDMX.
We spent hours walking the streets of the city. At Zocalo, aka Palace De Constitution, we saw the beautiful and HUGE Catrinas. They were representative of all the different counties/states in Mexico, and truly impressive and somewhat sinister.
On the main road through the city, Reforma, we we treated to a spectacle of art, structures representing the Alebrijes. Alebrijes are spiritual guides.These were made of paper, wood, colors and imagination....
Also along the Reforma, the huge skulls that have become such a popular emblem of this week.
But separate from the art surrounding the Day of the Dead festivities, the street art in Mexico City is an example of how cities can incorporate art as an everyday beauty. Sculptures and murals everywhere.
And of course, us getting into the spirit: getting our faces painted by the street artists.
We stayed in the historic District, spitting distance to the Palacio De Bella Artes. It is situated right next to the Alameida Park, the oldest park in CDMX. Marble walkways, fountains, people dancing salsa dance at sunset, chess players, Diego Riviera's famous mural, mango's, fresh fruit everywhere. The mangoes are cut up carefully by the vendor, then covered with a chili sauce and lime, with some tajine on the cup edge.
Street food, pan de Muerto ( Bread of the Dead) and only baked during this week),
stunning restaurants in the upscale neighborhood of Roma Norte- the food is really wonderful and so affordable.
And the markets! Gina took us to Lagunilla Market. You can spend days here, and buy everything you may ever need. Art, thrift clothing, new clothing, books, household goods, art...
A lovely day together.
When you go there make sure to do the outing to the Monument of the Revolution. Stunning structure. And a great place to view the city from. Pics.Also do not miss The Biblioteca Vasconcelos. Hanging stack of books. And the residents of CDMX read! Bookstores everywhere, book stands, even a book auction.The Castillo De Chapultepek is worth every step you take to this royal palace. Stained glass, hanging stairways, and a lovely and accessible way to learn about this culture and history. And I wonder why the Meso- American history is so neglected in our schools. It is a gap in my education for sure. Aztecs, Tolmecs...it is so rich and colorful and as most of our human history is, very violent.
The Castillo is in the Chapultepek Park, which is 3 times bigger than Central Park. It contains miles of walking space, fabulous plants and trees, a royal castle, and really provides a great escape from the city , which contains 27 million people... one of the 3 mega-cities in the world.
Gina is doing great, enjoys her job, loves her apartment and roommates, and is in our humble opinion, pretty fluent in Spanish. It was a gift to visit her and see her in her surroundings!
(Oh, did I mention art everywhere?)
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